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Marble Hill House, Twickenham

3/22/2023

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    Just outside London, Marble Hill House has long been a goal of mine, and I finally visited on my last day in England in September 2022. It was built 1724-29  for Henrietta Howard, Countess of Suffolk, a woman admired for her wit and understanding as well as her charm and beauty. Below, the South Front, facing the Thames across the garden.
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    The house in Twickenham is now cared for by English Heritage and its grounds, sloping down to the Thames, are partially dedicated to public parkland and playing grounds. A seven-year renovation project completed in 2022, with the help of the Heritage Lottery Fund.
    Below, portrait of Henrietta Hobart Howard, (1689-1767), who built Marble Hill House reportedly with the funds she received as a settlement after her long liaison with George, Prince of Wales, later King George II. Orphaned at age 12, she was the ward of Henry Howard, 5th Earl of Suffolk. She married his youngest son Charles in 1706, who mistreated her, probably causing her partial deafness by the time she reached the age of thirty. Their only child, Henry, eventually became the 10th Earl of Suffolk, succeeding his father.
​ 
      While Henrietta was the mistress of George, Prince of Wales, she was also Lady of the Bedchamber to his wife, Caroline, a relationship that varied from friendship to aversion. She was painted by Charles Jervas in 1724, below.
     Above, the portrait of George II (1683-1769) attributed to Swiss artist Barthelemy Du Pan now hangs in Marble Hill House though it never belonged to Henrietta Howard. Right, the painting is above the fireplace beyond the game table on the ground floor.
      Though she and her husband separated, they did not divorce; therefore, when he inherited his title as the 9th Earl of Suffolk in 1731, she became Countess of Suffolk. After her first husband died in 1733, Henrietta lived at Marble Hill where she entertained many intellectual leaders of the realm,  including Alexander Pope (1688-1744); Jonathan Swift (1667-1745); Richard Temple, 1st Viscount Cobham (1675-1744), builder of Stowe in Buckinghamshire; and Horace Walpole (1717-1797), her neighbor  at Strawberry Hill, and others.
      In 1735, she married George Berkeley (?1693-1746), youngest son of the 2nd Earl of Berkeley, who served in the House of Commons and as governor of London's St. Katherine's Hospital. ​Their eleven years of marriage were happier, a big improvement over her first marital experience. They raised her brother John's children at Marble Hill. In 1763, her granddaughter Henrietta Hotham (1753-1816) came to live with her.
     Below, two views of the north facade of the house, facing the playing fields and the town.
   Above, left. the front door, leading toward the view of the Thames. Right, a closer view of the game table with sketches of some of the frequent players.
    The House is often praised as the perfect Palladian villa, and was very influential in subsequent structures in Britain, the colonies, and the newly-established USA.

​​      Below, the Dining Parlor.  Henrietta was an admirer of the rage for Chinoserie design. The hand-painted wallpaper in this room, hung in 2006 by English Heritage, was carefully designed and executed by Chinese artists to resemble the description we have of the original, of which there is no trace.
   Above, left and right, the Breakfast Parlor. 
   The Palladian style, inspired by the designs of Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio (1508-1580), is based on symmetry, careful proportions, and classical influences from Greece and Rome. Palladian ideals dominated British architecture for decades, even centuries.
    As often seen in these structures, the central room, the Great Hall at Marble Hill, below, is a cube.
    If I understand the various accounts on the web both before and after the multi-year renovations completed in 2022, the portraits in the Great Room are contemporaries of Henrietta, Countess of Suffolk, brought to Marble Hill for exhibition recently. Originally, the Countess hung other works and five remaining capricci paintings by Giovanni Paolo Pannini. The imaginary Arcadian views of Italy were a very popular style in her time. 
 
     Below, left, a portrait of  King Charles I with Prince Charles, 17th C., after Anthony Van Dyke, acquired for the space in 1965. Right, Elizabeth Compton, Countess of Northampton, by John Vanderbank, c. 1737, brought to Marble Hill in 1965; a Pannini capricccio hangs above the doorway.​
Above, beneath the three grand windows facing the Thames, one of the marble pier tables is attributed to William Kent. The other, a contemporary recreation is almost identical, with the bird's head turned the other way  to preserve their symmetry. 
     Below, left, a lacquer Chinese screen, one of several similar imported objects in Henrietta's collection; right, the now-electrified chandelier.
Above, left: the mahogany staircase from the Ground Floor to First Floor (Piano Nobile); right, after Anthony van Dyke; portrait of Queen Henrietta Maria and Sir Jeffrey Hudson, c. 1633.
     Below, left and right, Red Bedroom, also known as the Damask Room. 
     Above, left, the writing room, also known as the Dressing Room, where Henrietta Howard spent much of her time. Left, I admired the subtle plaid upholstery. The painting is The Letter Writer by artist Philippe Mercier (1689-1760).
      Below, left, Henrietta Howard's bedchamber. Right, the bedchamber of great niece Henrietta Hotham (c.1750-1816), who lived at Marble Hill House and inherited the property after the death of the Countess of Suffolk in 1767.
Above, left, the Great Room. Right, Maria Fitzherbert (1756-1837), 1788, by Sir Joshua Reynolds 
​(1723-92).

     After Henrietta Howard's death in 1767, Marble Hill was eventually inherited by her great niece Henrietta Hotham. For several years up to 1796, it was the home of another mistress of another Prince of Wales. Mrs. Fitzherbert married the Prince of Wales, later George IV, in 1785 in an illegal ceremony (that is, unapproved by the monarch, George III). 
     Above, left, a stable block now a cafe and offices. Right, graveled area for playing games on the grounds.
      For many years, Marble Hill was rented out and fell into disrepair. It was saved by a national drive to preserve the view from Richmond Hill when development threatened. Parliament passed an act in 1902 to preserve the view of the Thames winding among woods and meadows in Surrey. Marble Hill thus became a park and playing fields. Participants in planning The recent renovations included groups of women recovering from abuse and those afflicted by hearing difficulties, to remember the trials Henrietta Howard, Lady Suffolk, endured.

     This concludes my series of reports on visiting England in September, 2022. More adventures are about to begin. Stay tuned. On my Bucket List: Hartwell House, Buckinghamshire.
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Chatsworth, Creme de la Creme (with a few reservations)

3/16/2023

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Where better to begin than in the library? Many of us wouldn't go any farther if we had temporary access to the contents!
    The quintessential English Stately Home without a doubt, seat of the Cavendish Family, Dukes of Devonshire, Chatsworth has evolved over many centuries. On my most recent visits, I have struggled with the frequent changes in the adornment of the house, for reasons I will attempt to explain. Below left, a few of us from The Beau Monde attending the New York City display of Treasures from Chatsworth in July, 2019; the exhibition, sponsored by Sotheby's, showed artworks from five centuries of collecting by the Cavendish family.. Right, a gigantic reproduction of a bureau leg displaying a tiara, against projected views of Chatsworth lawns. Please remember to click on the photos for complete versions.
Above left, a Canaletto view of Venice, c. 1730's; right, a sculpture c. 2017 by Tom Price, of resin, tar, steel and acrylic, purchased by Chatsworth. The more recent acquisitions represent Chatsworth's continuing tradition of supporting contemporary art. Like the examples above, the vast differences seem jarring to me, far from enhancing one's appreciation of either.
    After World War II, Andrew Cavendish, 11th Duke of Devonshire (1920-2004), and his Duchess, the former Deborah Mitford (1920-2014) worked for many years to renovate and enhance the estate as a national treasure house, family home, artistic legacy, and as a tourist attraction. In addition to balancing all these competing needs and resources, they were devoted to the continuation of the Cavendish family's tradition of collecting contemporary art. Their eldest son, Peregrine Cavendish, aka Stoker, b. 1944, inherited the title in 2004 as 12th Duke of Devonshire. He and his wife also collect art.
​      Below, also from the NYC exhibition, left, portrait of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire by Gainsborough, 1785-87; right, Lucien Freud, Woman in White Shirt (Deborah, Duchess of Devonshire), 1957.  Which do you prefer?
    Above, left and right, from the 2019 NYC Exhibition, a computer  portrait Laura, 2010, which changes colors constantly. Laura Cavendish is the Countess of Burlington, wife of the present heir,​ b. 1969. He chose to retain the courtesy title Earl of Burlington rather than becoming known as Marquess of Hartington when his father became duke. As Bill Burlington,  he is a professional photographer.
    Are you with me so far? We should have been well prepared for a wild mixture of art when we approached Chatsworth in September 2022. Their summer collaboration with the event in Nevada known as Burning Man festival had been well publicized, however odd a partnership it seemed.
    Below, from the car park, one could see the sculpture Wings of Glory by Adrian Landon (See it in motion on youtube: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhr3snYMRzY
At right, part of a collection of 100 metal crow sculptures Murder Inc. by Charles Gadeken.  
Above, left, the crows also gathered around the permanent sculpture of the boar, a copy of Il Porcellino (remember the one we saw at Castle Howard?).  Right, an amusing Victorian acquisition, by British painter Edwin Landseer (1802-1873, Laying Down the Law. Many of the artworks have a tongue-in-cheek quality.
      The 2022 exhibition was titled Radical Horizons, and though some of it was appealing in my opinion, other installations spoiled their surroundings instead of enhancing the rooms. For example, the gilded statue Exquisite Pain, St. Bartholomew by Damian Hirst (b. 1965), 2006, stands in a two-story alabaster altar by Caius Gabriel Cibber (1630-1700), once in a 17th C. court chapel. Before it, the oblong object by Tom Price. To me it just looks like a bench.
Above, left and right, various contemporary objects placed in Chatsworth's State Rooms. Do they help or hurt?
     After spending a considerable amount of my visit trying to  appreciate the juxtaposition of the new and old works, I decided to concentrate on some old favorites remembered from former visits to Chatsworth. Though I approve in principle of the Cavendish interest in more modern art, I have to admit most of the newer items do not appeal to my taste. Here are a few of my favorite Chatsworth snaps.
    Below, left, a colossal foot, a marble fragment from ancient Greece. Right, the figure of the goddess Sekhmet from ancient Egypt.​
Above, left, a Renaissance-era portrait, c. 1500, possibly of Girolamo Casio by Giovanni Antonio Boltraffio, d. 1516. It also has been attributed to Leonardo da Vinci and others. Right, in marble, A Veiled Vestal Virgin, 1846-47, by Raffaello Monti (1818-1881).
    Below, my absolute favorite: a trompe d'oeil violin on a peg in the State Music Room. You would swear it was a three-dimensional violin not a flat painting, the work of Dutch artist Jan van der Vaardt, c. 1723. It was moved  from its original position in Devonshire House, London, before the house on Piccadilly was demolished in 1924.
    Above left, a triple portrait by John Singer Sargent (1856–1925), oil on canvas, 1902. The subjects are the Acheson Sisters, granddaughters of Louise, Duchess of Devonshire, by her first marriage to the 7th Duke of Manchester. Louise Cavendish, (1832-1911) wife of Spencer Cavendish, 8th Duke of Devonshire (1833-1908), was thus known as  the double duchess; she served as Mistress of the Robes to Queen Victoria.  
      Right, from the sculpture gallery, Ganymede and the Eagle, 1823, by Adamo Tadolini (1788-1863). In poetry, Ganymede was the ideally beautiful youth captured by Zeus.
      Below, left, The Cascade dates from 1696, named as England's best water feature in 2004, a mere 300+ years later.  Right, The Emperor Fountain, 1843, built for a visit in 1844 from the Russian Tsar which never occurred. Nevertheless it is  beautiful sight.
      Above left, a bounteous display of white Autumn blooms under the birch tree. I suspect they are a form of violas, but I am not sure. Right, Flora’s Temple was built between 1693 and 1695 in a different position on the estate. The graceful statue of Flora is by Danish sculptor Caius Gabriel Cibber (1630-1700).
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RIP, Elizabeth II, 1926-2022
Great Britain's longest reigning monarch, 1952-2022
September 22, 2022, Chatsworth

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Castle Howard, Revisited

3/10/2023

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Castle Howard was designed by John Vanbrugh (1664-1726), who was a dramatist and stage designer in the Restoration Era. He collaborated with architect Nicholas Hawksmoor (1661-1736) on projects including Castle Howard and Blenheim Palace, creating an architectural sub-genre, English Baroque. Beginning in 1699, design and construction continued for about 25 years, though the final wing was not added until 1811.
    Below, the lordly gates, promising a spectacle beyond. The bountiful gardens are a suitable introduction to the main event.
       Above, as one wanders in the garden, you see glimpses of the high dome that crowns the house, and eventually the entire opulent structure comes into view.
   Below, left, the familiar sculpture of a boar, often seen around the world (we'll see another at Chatsworth soon) is a copy of the bronze Il Porcellino (the Piglet) fountain in Florence, Italy, which in turn is based on an ancient Greek original. Below, right, the view across the Atlas Fountain to the horizon. Please remember to click on the pictures for complete versions.
   Personally, I fell in love with Castle Howard when I watched the 1981 television series Brideshead  Revisited, based on the novel by Evelyn Waugh. Jeremy Irons (as Charles Ryder) and Anthony Andrews (as Sebastian Flyte) captured my admiration, as did other members of the stellar cast. The story has also been a feature film and another tv series. The house serves as a setting for many other filmed dramas including The Buccaneers, Death Comes to Pemberley, Victoria, and Bridgerton. Fees for its use have been used to restore many parts of the estate.
    Below, the halls and passages of the house are also galleries for the family's collection of ancient artifacts and more modern sculptures. Left, ancient copy of the head of Hermes; and right, William Cavendish, 6th Duke of Devonshire (1790-1858), brother of Lady Georgiana Howard, Countess of Carlisle (1783-1858).   
Above left, Lion attacking a Bull, one of a marble pair, 1st century AD; right, passageway with antique busts.
   Below, the Great Hall. Left, the fireplace surround of scagliola, and right, facing it, the alcove with statue of Bacchus. The Italian workman in 1711-12 used a plaster-and-marble blend, an early version of the technique used frequently

in succeeding decorative schemes in England.
    Above, the underside of the dome over the Great Hall, 52-feet above the floor. This is a reproduction of the original by Antonio Pellegrini of The Fall of Phaeton, completed in 1712.  In 1940, while Castle Howard was in wartime use as a girl's school, a fire destroyed much of the house including the Great Hall and Dome. The present version was created by Scott Medd in 1961-62.  
    Below, left, the garden hall, rebuilt after the fire, with painted scenes of Castle Howard's follies and outbuildings, most of which were created by Vanbrugh and Hawksmoor; right, the New Library.  
Above, left, the Music Room. Right, the Dining Room with many landscapes including Harbor Basin of San Marco, Venice, by Bernardo Bellotto (1722-1780), nephew and student of Canaletto.
​    Below, another view of the Music Room; right, the Turquoise Drawing Room.
      Above, left, portrait of Lady Mary Howard, daughter of the 6th Earl of Carlisle, 1828, by artist John Jackson; right, the grand Palladian window in the Museum Room.
     Below, left, also in the Museum Room, another perfectly proportioned window and velvet ropes shelter a tall Delft Tulip Vase on a William Kent table of about 1735. Right, a room exhibiting costumes from various dramas filmed at Castle Howard.
      Above, two views of the Long Gallery, not completed until 1810. At 166 feet, it's said to be the longest gallery in an English house. Below, left, the great lake, and right, a distant view of Hawksmoor's Pyramid, one of the many quirky outbuildings on the estate.
Next, touring Chatsworth.
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    Victoria Hinshaw, Author


    Here I will share some of my articles on favorite topics, such as English Country Houses, the Regency Royals, Jane Austen, and the like. Some of these articles have been published elsewhere, probably on the blog I share with Kristine Hughes and Louisa
    ​Cornell:  numberonelondon.net

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